Tuesday, January 10, 2023
Sunday, January 08, 2023
Karnataka Temples - 7. Thondanur Nambi Narayana
About 18 kms from Ananthazhwan avathara sthalam, and ~22 kms from Srirangapatna Ranganathaswamy temple, is the Thondanur Nambi Narayanan temple.
Swami Ramanujar stayed in Thondanur for 12 years. During his time there, he freed the king's daughter from a Brahma rakshasa and converted many people to vaishnavism. The Hoysala king Bittideva also changed to Vishnuvardana, and built 5 temples for Narayana called the panchanarayana temples. The wand used by Ramanuja to shoo the Brahma rakshasa is there at the Yoga Narasimha temple in Thondanur.
A point to note is that convertions happened in those days based on debates. Scholars used to debate their philosophies and the losing scholar many times converted to the other faith. Tough to imagine this in today's context where people don't even hear another person's view point, let alone evaluating it logically and accepting defeat. The debates that we watch in TV are just about who screams at the higher pitch đŽâđ¨
The Nambi Narayana temple is one of the pancha narayana temples. The God in the Nambi Narayanan temple has the chakra and shangu interchanged in his hands depicting the Samaasrayanam pose, since many people were converted here.
The temple area is vast. The dwajasthambam has Garudan, Anjaneyar, Swan and Simham on the four sides. The dwajasthambam looks straight when seen alone, but looks tilted when viewed from within the temple. The temple is about 1000 years old and the God's idol is about 5500 years old.
The moolavar is Nambi Narayana with Aravinda Nayaki thaayaar. The urchavar is Lakshmi Narayana with Bhoodevi thaayaar.
As I wrote in the earlier blog, the lord carries the name of Thondanur Nambi aka Ananthazhwan.
This temple's timings are different from the norm. Other than the morning it is open from 3 to 5 in the evening. The temple closes at 5 PM since it is believed that Ramanujar worships the God in the evening in the form of a serpent.
Photo from the internet, source |
Sunday, January 01, 2023
Karnataka Temples - 6. Kirangoor Ananthazhwan Avathara Sthalam
My plan was to go from Srirangapatna to Thondanur. While traveling I noticed Google Maps show "Ananthazhwan avathara sthalam" on the way, about 4 kms from Srirangapatna. I thought of making a stop since there was still time for the Thondanur temples to open.
Ananthazhwan is known for his kainkaryan at Tirupati, and for his staunch devotion to Ramanujar. Once while teaching a pasuram by Nammazhvar, Ramanujar wishes that one of his disciples should create a garden in Tirupati and perform flower kainkaryan to perumal everyday. Ananthazhwan took the responsibility and established the Ramanuja Brindavanam in Tirupati. I have not been to the brindavanam but it seems to be mapped in Gmaps https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZLFTmCQvjLNpfpS58. It is worth thinking about the fact that Thirumala did not have roads back then. It was a forest that was home to many wild animals, which made some people wary of climbing.
Stories about Ananthazhwan, and details of his compositions, can be found at https://guruparamparai.wordpress.com/2013/03/31/ananthazhwan/.
Let me come back from Tirupati to Thondanur.
The temple was closed when I went. Took few glimpses of the place that the great man was born, and proceeded further.
I had said earlier that I stopped at Kirangoor on the way to Thondanur. One of the deities in Thondanur is called Nambi Narayanan. Ananthazhwan is called Thondanur Nambi.
Friday, December 30, 2022
Karnataka Temples - 5. Srirangapatna Narasimhaswamy Temple
Karnataka Temples - 4. Srirangapatna Ranganathaswamy
The Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangapatna is about 10-15 minutes drive from the Karighatta Srinivasa temple. A priest in one of the earlier temples had commented, "It is a tourist temple and will be open longer than other temples". The crowd at the temple and the plethora of shops outside the temple validated the notion. We took the Rs.50 ticket to have a speedy Darshan.
Srirangapatna is one of the 3 Rangams that are considered special - Adi Rangam (Srirangapatna), Madhya Rangam (Shivanasamudhra) and Anthya Rangam (Srirangam). These 3 temples are located in islands that are in the Cauvery.
Srirangapatna is also one of the Pancharanga kshetrams alongside the temples for Srirangam Ranganatha, Trichy Koviladi Appakudathan, Indalur Parimala Ranganatha and Kumbakonam Sarangapani (or) Vadarangam near Sirkazhi. The last Rangam is listed as Sarangapani in some places, and as Vadarangam in some places. As per legend, people absolve from their sins by bathing in the holy Cauvery. Lord Vishnu manifested as Ranganatha in many places along the river so that Cauvery could absolve from the sins that she took from the people.
The temple was built by Brahma as per legend. Another legend states that Sage Gauthama built (or rebuilt) it. Today, the temple stands after receiving additions and repairs from multiple dynasties, which is reflected on its architectural styles.
The divine feeling near Ranganathar was amazing. While there was no "Jaragandi", the pressure to keep moving was inevitable.
Lord Ranganatha, photo from the internet |
I am not going to write much about the temple itself since Wiki has provided great coverage @https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ranganathaswamy_Temple,_Srirangapatna.
I will also suggest reading the history of the temple @ http://www.bibangalore.org/indian-heritage/srirangapatanam.
Thursday, December 29, 2022
Karnataka Temples - 3. Karighatta Srinivasa Perumal
The Karighatta Srinivasa perumal temple is about 30 minutes from the Mandya Lakshmi Janardhana perumal temple, and about 10 minutes from the Srirangapatna Ranganathaswamy temple. While going from the Mandya temple we were stuck for a while in a level crossing in Mandya. Need to check if there is an alternate way.
I had not heard of the Karighatta temple before, and was going based on online reviews. A wild card, so to say. The temple was on top of a hill at 2697 feet. It was a scenic drive on the hill which was very pleasant since the road was good and there were no vehicles coming in the other direction. Not sure how comfortable it would have been on a more crowded day. There are about 500 steps if one were to climb the hill instead of driving up. It was a surreal feeling on top of the hill with gentle breeze and great views.
I am not uploading any photos of the hill since I did not take any photos without people in them. A simple Google search will show a lot of great photos of this place.
The temple has 3 Srinivasars - the main deity is the Karigirivasa Srinivasar, who is flanked by shrines for Yoga Srinivasar and Boga Srinivasar. All the three Srivasars are tall statutes casting a gracious glance. We were fortunate to witness the thirumanjanam of the main deity.
Lord Srinivasa, photo from the internet |
The Thayar is goddess Padmavati.
Goddess Padmavati, photo from the internet |
The urchava moorty is not kept in the temple due to the fear of theft/robbery. We visited the priest's home in the village below the temple and were blessed to get the dharshan of the urchavar.
Urchavar - Srinivasar |
Legend/history (Source: https://www.thrillophilia.com/karighatta)
The temple is famous for being associated with two legends of Hindu mythology. One legend says that the temple was built when Sage Kutsamuni performed his penance so as to pray to Lord Srinivasa to bring back to life four maidens (devotees of Lord Srinivasa) who were killed by an elephant called Kari.
Another legend is related to the Hindu epic Ramayana where it is said that Sugreeva (the monkey king) brought this hill (then called Nilachala) from Thirumala for helping to make a bridge to Lanka in order to bring back Sita. However, at the request of local devotees of Lord Vishnu, he left the hill here and then on it came to be known as Karighatta.
A different Source quotes that the idol of the God was installed by sage Brigu.
The sangamam of Cauvery and Lokapavani is supposed to be visible from the hill. I did not see.
Operational details: No entry fee. Footwear can be left just outside the temple but will suggest leaving them in the car since there are many monekys. There is ample car parking atop the hill. I could not find the priest's phone number online, so could not check before going.
Tuesday, December 27, 2022
Karnataka Temples - 2. Mandya Lakshmi Janardhana Swamy Temple
The Sri Lakshmi Janardhana Swamy temple is about 40 kms from the Aprameyaswamy temple.
The approach roads are narrow but a sedan/cross-over car can go easily. The temple was absolutely empty when we went. Again, to note, it was Ananthyayana Kaalam/ December/ Maargazhi.
Sri Lakshmi Janardhana Swamy Temple |
Karnataka temples - 1. Doddamallur Aprameyaswamy
We visited many temples between Bangalore and Melkote on a day trip. The trip was during Ananthyayana Kaalam, so the temple timings were different than the usual timings.
We started with the Aprameyaswamy temple in Doddamallur. The temple is off highway 275. Our GPS took us through a different route which led us to broken roads in a village. So better to stick to 275.
The main sanctum in this 11th century temple is of Lord Aprameya. Aprameya means one who has immeasurable qualities. Perumal is in Nindra Thirukolam with Sangu and Chakram in the upper hands, and Kamalam and Gadhai in the lower hands.
Photo from internet, for remembering in the future |
The thayar shrine had Aravindavalli thayar. While we were immersed in the benevolence flowing from the thayar's face, the priest explained that we can bring Kumkum and oil the next time for the thayar. I did not find shops selling oil near the temple, so better to buy before traveling to the temple.
Photo from internet, for remembering in the future |
There was a separate shrine for Navaneetha Krishnar. Krishnar was in the form of a baby holding ghee in his hand. The Krishna is typically without much adornments, but was highly adorned on the day that we went, probably because of the month of Marghazhi.
Purandaradasar had composed the song, "Jagadodharana, aadisidalu Yashodaâ, at this temple.
Photo from internet, for remembering in the future |
There was a separate Vaikuntanaathar shrine. Vaikuntanaathar with his consorts was a sight to see. Note: I do not find any mention of Vaikuntanathar in Doddamallur in any website. But I am sure that that's what the priest said.
The temple also had Ramanujar and Vedantha Desikar.
Operational details: No entry fee. There is a place to wash hands on the left side of the temple. The temple is open from 8 am on regular days, and from 4:30 am during Ananthayanam.
Down the memory lane: From my last trip to the Aprameyaswamy temple in 2006 - http://ramanuj.blogspot.com/2006/04/mysore-trip-doddamallur.html
Tuesday, December 20, 2022
Mathura-Vrindhavan-Gokul trip - Part 3 - Gokul
Gokul
Gokul has a lot of
temples. I could not really figure out which ones were the genuine historic
temples and which one, specifically, was the vaishnavite divya desam (part of
108 Thirupatis). I had noted two places in Google Maps, but the driver took me
to two different places. I believe the ones that we visited were the ones to be
visited, but thatâs more of a guess.
Mahaban Vasudeva
Bhavan
The driver called the
first temple as Vasudeva Bhavan. Google maps calls it Shri Krishna Garbh Grah
Temple -> https://goo.gl/maps/Chabw6dy1yvTtM416.
It was in a place called Mahaban. A colleague of mine, whoâs hometown was
Mathura, had said that Mahaban is the temple that people visit in Gokul; so had
some sort of confirmation on being in the right temple.
The annoyance of the
local guides started at the entrance of the temple. I was not surprised. But I
was surprised when they, a group of 5 of the guides, took turns and kept
harassing me inside the temple. They did not even allow me to have a look at
the deity without disturbing. There were comments like, âLook, he is staring at
the deity but does not want to pay usâ.
The temple looked like
a big house. There was a cow shed/GoShala before entering the temple, and there
were many rooms/shrines inside. One shrine had big statues of Vasudevar and
Krishnar. I wish I had some undisturbed time to go around in peace.
Once outside the
temple, my driver said that I could walk in the road beside the temple and see
the village. I started to walk. Then heard and noticed many monkeys around, and
very few people. Decided to play it safe and return to the car.
Entrance to the temple |
GoShala near the entrance of the temple |
Temple - side view |
GoShala |
Vasudev Bhavan, photo from the internet |
Nanda Bhavan
The next stop was Nandha Bhavan - https://goo.gl/maps/vDiGmAds6MjznCjs6. My driver said that it was a place that people visit but he was not sure what it was. The minute that we stopped the car, the âguidesâ started pestering. I asked them where Navamohan temple (Ayarpaadi) was, and they said that it was right there. It was a mere ploy to get me to enter the place and I fell for it. Once again bargained the guides down to Rs.20 and went to the temple with them. The temple was about 10 minutesâ walk from the parking place, through narrow lanes.
The guide showed us, through
a window, the place where Vasudevar crossed the Yamuna with baby Krishna.
Place where Vasudeva crossed Yamuna |
We then went to the
first shrine. We were asked to sit at the initial spot in the shrine, and then
move while seated toward the Lord. While moving slowly, the guide kept giving
info like â Nanda baba donated 9 lakh cows to celebrate Krishnaâs birth; the Muslim
invaders never attacked Gokul (really?); 80% of families in Gokul are brahmins
(then what about the yadavas?); etc.. The shrine had Nandagopan, Balram,
Krishna and Sathyabama. By the time we reached closer to the Lord, the process
seemed clear â the priest ask for each personâs name, their parentâs names,
gothra, district, and then say that they will have to pay Rs.3600 to the temple
in their parentsâ name. When one person said that he could not, he was asked to
pay Rs.1800. Some preferred not to pay inspite of the heavy insistence of the
priest. I ended up succumbing to the pressure but at a lower amount. I do not
mind giving to temples, but the pressure of the priests is something that I
have not seen in South Indian temples.
Receipt for the donation |
The second,
third and fourth shrines applied more pressure. They even had UPI codes for
the money transfer. Anyways, core objective was still on â visiting the temples
and feeling the environment where Krishna played as a kid. All the shrines had
Krishna, depicting different events of his life.
Nanda bhavan deities in the main shrine, photo from the internet |
The guide guided us back to the car park, and left after another bargain on his fee.
I am happy that I
visited the 2 places in Gokul. I felt warm at the sight of the gods. If only
the pestering of the locals was reduced, if not eradicated fully, it would have
been a more content visit.
There is Raman Reti, a
place where people roll in the sand where Krishna played. I asked my driver to
take me there and he mentioned that there are many Raman Retis, and he was not
sure as to which the genuine one was. We ended up not visiting the place.
I wanted to go to
Govardhan and Barsana on the way back but the driver was very reluctant. He
said that roads are bad and there are no lights. I was too tired to argue and
we started the drive back to Gurgaon.
I am a bit disappointed in missing some of the places, but overall content. I visited the main places that I wanted to, and now understand the area better. I am hoping that I get to visit these holy places again.
Labels: Gokul, Krishna, Pilgrimage, Travel